When I lived in Santa Barbara I was often commuting to Los Angeles. Traveling right next to some popular surf spots like Rincon or Emma Wood it was my usual habit to check out the swell and hopefully get to see a nice ride. At the time I was very fascinated by surfing and by the whole surfing culture that I wanted to document it.
I wasn’t attracted by what you normally get to see in surf magazines or websites. I wanted to capture the normal people that make surf what it is. We often see pros’ portraits or images of epic waves or rides but what we don’t get to see is the people who just take their free time to do what they love the most.
“Surfers” is a tribute to these people. They probably won’t ever ride epic waves, they won’t have fame nor make money.
They just love surfing.